Daniel Rose’s first L.A. restaurant: Why it’s French Basque

In July, a bit of French Basque will hit downtown LA in the form of long-stewed chicken with Espelette pepper; green peppers stuffed with shallots, rice and cinnamon; and roasted duck breast with grapes and cherries. In a way, coastal Europe is a mirror image of Los Angeles, and he intends to show the similarities in taste and culture when he opens Café Basque on the premises of the Hoxton Hotel in downtown.

It marks chef Le Coucou’s first Michelin-starred West Coast restaurant, and his second in the United States, as well as the first time the French chef has shaped a restaurant around cooking. Basque Country.

“I was addicted, in a way, to the idea of ​​taking the French way to different places,” Rose said in an interview. “I think there are amazing cities in the world that have so much personality, so much diversity, have a different way of looking at the world – and I find that absolutely thrilling.”

Rose, born and raised in Illinois, set off for France to study abroad 24 years ago and has never actually left. The chef with a passion for classics and art history finished his studies in Paris and wanted to stay in France, decided to pursue a career in cooking, enrolling in the Institut Paul Bocuse.

From there, he apprenticed and cooked his way through Brittany, the South of France and other locales – by detour to Guatemala in 2004, where he cooked French food with Central American ingredients in close proximity. two years at a luxury hotel on Lake Atitlán – then returned to Paris to open Spring, a huge success of a market-oriented 16-seat destination with a fixed menu in 2006. Pre-orders have been filling up every month. Le Figaro food critic Emmanuel Rubin visited a few weeks before Spring’s opening and wrote one of Rose’s favorite reviews to this day: It’s a life-like restaurant. “I don’t know how you can achieve that,” said the chef. “I think that was very moving, and it resonated with everything we’ve done since then.”

Spring, which in 2010 expanded to a much larger location, closed in 2017. But since it emerged worldwide, each Rose concept has focused on a different nuance of cooking. French food, be it fine dining, bistro, provincial or, in the case of his upcoming Chicago restaurant – Le Select, which will open in late fall – a classic brasserie. Le Coucou, Rose’s first American restaurant, opened in New York in 2016 to instant fame; devotees still seek to book in advance to celebrate fine dining, French traditions, and revived dishes from decades and even centuries ago.

In Los Angeles, Basque cuisine simply makes sense.

“I thought, ‘What about Basque cooking that suits Los Angeles?’ For me, California is defined by sunshine, in some ways,” he said. “There are a few places in France that have Cuisine du Soleil, [or] ‘cooking from the sun.’ In my brain, it would be weird to cook dishes from Normandie in Southern California, but there are natural places already in France that have this Cuisine du Soleil tradition. “

An exterior of the entrance hall to the Hoxton Hotel in downtown Los Angeles.

The Hoxton Hotel downtown will be home to Daniel Rose’s first LA restaurant. Café Basque will take over the ground floor, including the dining room, lounge and bar.

(Christina House / Los Angeles Times)

An example of this is Provençal cooking, between Marseilles and the Italian border, as it overlaps with Italian food – a dish readily available in LA.

Most of Rose’s intended similarities between France and Los Angeles can be found in the Pays Basque, or the French Basque Country, especially along the coast: surf culture and ingredients like artichokes, almonds, etc. and olive oil inspired Rose, who also saw familiarity in the popularity of Espelette pepper and tomatoes in the Basque Franco-Spanish cuisine.

“That,” he said, “leads to the parallelism of California and Mexico, a kind of cross-border and diversity cultural movement.”

While Café Basque will share a few highlights of Spanish Basque cooking, including flaming kebabs and a range of pintxos, French Basque cuisine is distinct, Rose notes: it’s a combination of traditional French techniques and recipes, but made with great simplicity. It is not Spanish Basque, nor is it official French. “Basque cooking is very different from what most people think about French cooking,” says Rose. “In a way, it’s transnational. It requires a lot of ingenuity, but is very brute force.”

His new menu will draw on rustic and live fire cooking techniques, envisioning a range of traditional Basque dishes made with Californian ingredients: white beans in a local vegetable broth; gratin de crabe caught from the California coast; sébaste au español, or classic Californian grilled rockfish with garlic, lemon, and tomatoes in green olive oil; and ttoro, a fish soup with squid and shellfish and local fish cooked a bit like bouillabaisse.

The new restaurant will take over the entire ground floor of the Hoxton Hotel, operating the lobby bar, cafe and sleek brass-accented restaurant space that was formerly inhabited by the Sibling Rival. Boka Restaurant Group operates both the ground floor as well as the rooftop restaurant space, now the home of Stephanie Izard’s Cabra. The hotel group is also teaming up with Rose for Chicago’s upcoming Le Select – a return home for a chef who grew up in Chicago and is returning, yes, to visit family, but also just for him. simply want to open a beer bar. “A brasserie is of course a French restaurant, but it’s a place where commerce and food meet, where I feel very Chicago,” he said.

When Rose visits downtown LA, he is struck by the remaining Art Deco details of the neighborhood and also reminded of the hotels in Biarritz. As for its own space, the Sibling Rival dining room has a modern diner-like layout with a long counter, which can create a comfortable, intimate space for Rose. Café Basque, he says, will be his most casual restaurant.

His role has changed in the nearly two decades since the opening of Spring, evolving from owner and chef to international operations manager and chef-partner for a variety of concepts, including including Paris’ La Bourse et La Vie, which he converted in April and May into Le Borscht et La Vie, serving Ukrainian food with the help of war refugees. His expanded duties mean more traveling – with France serving as the main base for Rose, his wife and children – and overseeing hundreds of employees. Starting in June, his new Los Angeles team will focus their efforts on cooking in the Café Basque space, where Rose herself will cook and be stationed in the fall, at which point he’ll be starting head rotates Chicago more often during his visits. restaurants in Paris, LA and New York City.

The chef estimates Café Basque will open at the end of July, perhaps in phases, but always serves something up throughout the day, even in the form of more intimate dishes at the cafe at the end of the building. home, or at the bar and lounge: Basque cheesecake and other pastries, perhaps with a brûlot cafe to wash it down. Breakfast and brunch can include toast with ham, French tarts, sheep’s milk yoghurt, millet (traditional cornmeal porridge, here served with spinach, a little honey and oil). olives) and Basque-inspired dishes from the Croque feast.

Rose said he hopes his first Los Angeles restaurant will convey a more casual, more casual dining icon in both the Pays Basque and LA

“Food we always take very, very seriously. The danger is always that the food becomes too serious,” he said. “In a way, it’s like we’re trying to find the ultimate balance. Maybe it’s like the picture in the frame, you know? Painters also used to choose their frame – they decided what was around it was equally important.”

https://www.latimes.com/food/story/2022-05-27/chef-daniel-rose-first-los-angeles-restaurant-french-basque-country-cooking Daniel Rose’s first L.A. restaurant: Why it’s French Basque

Russell Falcon

USTimesPost.com is an automatic aggregator of the all world’s media. In each content, the hyperlink to the primary source is specified. All trademarks belong to their rightful owners, all materials to their authors. If you are the owner of the content and do not want us to publish your materials, please contact us by email – admin@ustimespost.com. The content will be deleted within 24 hours.

Related Articles

Back to top button