How Mexican restaurants became essential to California dining

If you’ve ever lived in Los Angeles, it’s possible that there’s a dish or an ambience of an old Mexican restaurant that you love. These restaurants, serving what you might call classic American Mexican, or California Mexican — “Cal-Mex” for short — have become a big part of LA’s identity. Gustavo Arellano, columnist for the Times, writes: “Cal-Mex is a metaphor for our own state. “Its history and resilience tell us where we come from, who we are and where we’re going – never static, forever undervalued, forever dynamic.”

Consider this package a guide to the culinary soul of our state. How Mexican restaurants became essential to California dining

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