I’m calling it. The salad of summer is deep-fried

This week, I will be making the case for the salad. These won’t help you achieve your ideal body in the summer, but they will make the most of some very good products.

Water spinach salad in Jitlada

My favorite salad all over Los Angeles is the deep fried. This should come as no surprise to anyone familiar with my preference for brown foods. Frying is my vibe.

The water spinach salad at Jitlada is my favorite in summer, winter, spring and autumn. Chef and owner Sarintip “Jazz” Singsanong said she and her late brother Tui Sungkamee were inspired to create the salad after a trip back to southern Thailand more than a decade ago.

“I see them serving crispy papaya and morning glory, crispy pork belly, fried tofu and noodles everywhere,” she said. “I came back and thought that no one makes crispy spinach in LA”

Singsanong’s salad starts with bunches of fresh water spinach. She dips them in a dough made with Gogi tempura powder, a multi-purpose, self-enhancing dough that she mixes with water. After frying, the coating is light, crispy and clings to the vegetables.

For the sauce, she mixes citrus juice (which is a secret to be exact) with chili and fish sauce, adding minced steamed shrimp and finely chopped red onion. It has a mild sour and slightly spicy taste. It’s what keeps salads flavorful, even when you’re deep-frying through the fried pieces.

Just before serving, the sauce and shrimp mixture is poured over the fried vegetables and topped with fried shallots. Let the salad mix well before serving and consume quickly. Water spinach remains crispy until you’re done.

Hot Cabbage and Mushroom Salad with Garlic Soy Butter Sauce at Gunsmoke

Gunsmoke's warm cabbage salad.

Gunsmoke’s warm cabbage salad.

(Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times)

The warm cabbage salad at Brandon Kida’s new Hollywood restaurant looks like a flower. It comes in a tight bunch with the individual leaves neatly arranged in a circle. It is topped with small, crispy fried anchovies, fresh herbs, and thinly grated Parmesan cheese. Your waiter uses a spoon and helps the flowers bloom, gently spreading the leaves all over the plate.

“The table presentation gave us the opportunity to tell a story about the food,” says Kida.

The story he wanted to tell about the Caesar salad was inspired by eating kimchi all his life. His favorite bites are thick shingles, ones close to the base of the cabbage. He took those leaves and threaded them until they withered away.

The outfit has the fun punch of a Caesar thanks to its green soles reinforced with dashi water and white soybeans.

After the salad, there are mushrooms. Just by the label “mushrooms” on the menu, you might not guess that it’s actually a plate of mushrooms prepared like escargot. Kida uses rehydrated shiitake for a firm texture, similar to an actual snail. They sat in tiny dimples in plates, hot butter sauce with garlic, white soybeans and parsley.

Mushrooms are served with a soft bread, similar to the kind you’ll find at a gourmet bakery. Rip, dip in a small puddle of butter and repeat.

Tomato Salad at Ototo

Ototo restaurant's seasonal tomato salad and sake bar.

Ototo restaurant’s seasonal tomato salad and sake bar.

(Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times)

I have never been a fan of tomatoes in everything. Sliced ​​tomatoes ruin a delicious cheeseburger. They act like a wet cardboard in an Italian sub. They bring the soggy ones to the crispy falafel wrap party. But during the summer, as female leads, they really shine.

While momotaro tomatoes are in season, you’ll find them in tomato salad at sake bar Ototo, dressed in a gorgeous citrus shoyu layer. Tomatoes are cut into large chunks so that the fruit is dense and sweet in the front and center. A super soft, creamy piece of Meiji tofu that almost melts into the tomatoes.

The salad is seasoned with toasted nori and lots of sesame seeds. On my most recent visit there was grilled baby corn on top. The different toppings may vary by the time you visit, but if you see any variation of “tomato salad” on the menu, order it.

Jitlada, 5233 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 667-9809, jitladala.com
Gunsmoke, 1550 N. El Centro Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 396-9400, gunmokehollywood.com
Ototo, 1360 Allison Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 784-7930, ototo.la

https://www.latimes.com/food/story/2022-07-18/favorite-summer-salad-deep-fried I’m calling it. The salad of summer is deep-fried

Russell Falcon

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