Photo: Courtesy of Focus Features
Figuring out your winter wardrobe is complicated. The question, of course, is how many layers you might need on a given cold day (too many and you’re an overheated machine, too little and you’re a wobbly iceberg). There is also the question of how to use clothing in cold weather to send a message saying that you are classy and strong. But thanks TárTodd Field’s new movie starring Cate Blanchett, I realized that winter really is the best time to convey a dark mood.
In the film, which will hit theaters nationwide starting October 28, Blanchett plays Lydia Tár, a world-renowned, EGOT-winning conductor whose life and career were enviable until it hit gradually spiraling out of her control. Lydia conveys power and success through her meticulously curated wardrobe of luxurious cashmere fabrics, tweeds, wools and silks. The wardrobe is also characterized by sleek, tailored silhouettes that read: “Don’t do that to me. I’m very powerful and very busy.” That’s right – Blanchett’s character can teach you exactly how to dress for Frigid-Bitch winter.
As the conductor of her orchestra, Lydia is also a master of layering: It is never too much and never too little for her. She, almost all of the time, either wears a nice sweater over a silk shirt or wears a lanyard around her shoulders. Besides a thick and sleek coat there was also an oversized but tailored blazer. Loose pants that never extend past her legs, a high-end version of the trendy oversize silhouette, are also essential to her ensemble. Her wardrobe palette mostly contains dark neutrals with rare brightness or colors with various shades like blue, white or khaki. It’s also clear that her population is heavily influenced by her surroundings, as the film’s location alternates between New York City and Berlin.
Tár costume designer Bina Daigeler, who earned an Academy Award nomination for her 2020 live-action adaptation of Magnolia Flower, told Cut how she created this particular mood for Lydia in the early stages of costume planning for the film. “I did the mood board for the whole movie, and I showed it to Todd Field and Cate. It’s quite… It’s like a collage with graffiti on top and very Berlin. Once I got it settled, then we knew which way we were going,” she said. “It’s very dark, and the only colorful things are graffiti or other people on her side.”
Before we find ourselves in the grips of Frigid-Bitch Winter, I recommend creating a similar mood board. Most parts of the movie are made specifically for Blanchett, but there’s nothing wrong with using the character for style inspiration (look up the character to find any other form of inspiration, such as the way the character looks. behave in the workplace, that’s for sure. Not advised). Daigeler describes her role on Tár As a costume designer and psychologist, this required her to combine classic, contemporary and custom pieces for the film while also immersing herself in the mind of complex Lydia. Some skins, such as Lydia’s, were planned in advance, but others were adjusted at the last minute. “I always give us a lot of freedom and we decide on a lot of changes right before the start of the shoot – because of all the emotions, they come when we start shooting,” Daigeler said. “With the costumes, it’s easy for her to capture all the different emotions she has to make.”
Photo: Courtesy of Focus Features
The cold in Frigid-Bitch Winter doesn’t turn hard. For Lydia Tár, Movement is the most important element to her wardrobe besides mood. Behaving and playing musical instruments are fairly physical tasks, which means she’s been wearing fabrics that keep her warm but also breathe. Daigeler searched images of other female conductors around the globe to see what they were wearing when conducting the orchestra on stage. “But then I also looked at male conductors from all periods. Because I think with Lydia, it’s very vague where she’s going to settle — how many men are in her wardrobe, which part will be female,” she said. As a result, this wardrobe is quite androgynous, tailored to suit Blanchett’s long and thin frames, with plenty of men’s-inspired outfits. Daigeler recalls one of her favorite Lydia looks: a black turtleneck worn with a button-up shirt. This look is tailored and looks like something you’d wear on a chilly day at the office – but it’s Lydia’s version that’s suitable for the weekend.
As Lydia’s life turns around, so does her wardrobe. While Daigeler has given careful thought to what would make Lydia look unflattering, the wardrobe she wears while shooting out of control in the third scene of the film still looks very appropriate. together. Spiral doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice elegance if you’re Lydia Tár, but the more she falls, the less formal her outfit becomes. The tunics are a bit away from her body and the fabric is more wrinkled, suggesting she may not have time to iron or steam them (or that she doesn’t have an employee to do it for her). During this part of the movie, she begins to wear warmer colored clothes, which indicates that she has lost all of her powers. An all-black oversize suit sends a completely different message of authority than a wrinkled beige suit.
If there’s one item Lydia wears in the movie that accurately conveys who this woman is, it’s The Row’s black cashmere coat. “It was a good coat, and I was obsessed,” Daigeler said. “I really wanted exactly this cashmere jacket. When I found it, I was the happiest.” During a fitting session, when Daigeler told Blanchett she was going to wear a coat made by The Row, the actress said, “Oh my God, all your budgets are gone.”
To fully embody Frigid-Bitch Winter requires such an attitude. But those more receptive to Lana Del Rey’s warmer hugs, hygge and summer vibes can also achieve the Cold-Bitch Winter look. You just need the right pieces, styled the right way: It’s all about silhouette, fit, and color (or lack thereof).
Daigeler calls this (sold out) jacket the “miracle piece” of the film.
The perfect shirt to imitate Lydia Tár imitating Gustav Mahler.
When it gets too cold for a quick, furious walk with just a pair of pants and turtlenecks after an argument with friends, this herringbone jacket adds another layer of essentials.
Perfect for sitting down during an hour-long piano session.
But why try to recreate Mahler’s look when you can just dress up as Lydia? The crisp white down button is one of her picks.
You can prioritize both warmth and movement in these wool pants.
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https://www.thecut.com/2022/10/tar-film-costume-winter-wardrobe-shop.html Shop Lydia Tár’s Costumes for Winter-Wardrobe Inspiration