Tremaine Emory and Supreme Took Over Paris Fashion Week

This originally appeared in Show notes, GQ staff member of Samuel Hine Fashion Week newsletter. For more such stories, hit the link and subscribe.

Last Thursday night, the only hot spot in Paris was the gentlemen’s club off the Champs Elysee. Supreme was in town, hosting one of its biggest parties since the beginning of the pandemic. Inside, David Blaine pulled a tag out of the ears of stunned skaters as a stripper wearing a T-shirt with a slanted boxy logo ran nearby. It’s packed with members of the supreme team from Paris, London and New York, club kids, rappers, fashion insiders and artists like Kunle Martins. In other words, it’s a classic bash of supremacy, thrown for the global hub. But there was also something else in the air. First, there was a Thom Browne employee, dressed in short shorts, waiting for a drink at the bar. The crowd waiting in line outside was dressed up in designer clothes. For the first time in the brand’s history, Supreme officially landed on fashion week.

Why now? I asked Supreme’s new creative director, Tremaine Emory, to suggest me. When Emory joined Supreme in February, it was the first major appointment announced since VP Corp acquired the brand for $2.1 billion in 2020 and a sign that there could be a change as the skate label ends for the third decade. Emory is the founder of Denim Tears, a clothing brand that is also his mouthpiece for racial justice and cultural activism. Like his friend and collaborator, Virgil Abloh, Emory is not bound by the rules of the fashion industry; His project, as he sees it, is too important for that. When he announced his partnership with Converse in 2020, he asked Converse’s parent company Nike to commit to driving real social change before he approved the sneaker. Supreme has a rich history of political activism, but also embodies feelings of indifference to a stylish guy. Emory’s appointment seems like a commitment to deepen the brand’s involvement in political and cultural issues, on a level beyond the “Fuck the President” tees.

The first products Emory designed for the brand will be released this fall, with his first full collection coming next spring. But his impact has been felt. Emory arrived at the party around 11 p.m., and everywhere he went, a crowd followed. Although he could have been hired from outside the company, the Supreme Children had eaten his hand off. Emory explained that the party was up and running before his first day. But both moves – Emory’s party and new show – feel intimately connected: together, they serve as an acknowledgment that Supreme is a key player in the vast fashion system. than any other luxury brand on the official fashion week schedule. Emory explains: “It’s all connected. Don’t expect a Supreme to return to the runway; they were there and did it courtesy of Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton. But under Emory, it’s safe to say that Supreme is taking a closer look at the world of fashion — and celebrating how much it has changed the industry. “Every fashion brand tries to do what Preme has been doing for the past 30 years,” says Emory. “Why not show up at the Super Bowl, when we helped write the play that so many people are using?”

Emory didn’t just come to town for the Supreme Party. He also attends gallery appointments for Denim Tears Spring 23, sows seeds from his new Levi’s collection, and attends runway shows by his friends and collaborators. (Although he missed a Louis Vuitton show after security barred him and Acyde from entering—a better sign than any, perhaps, that the revolution that Abloh started was not near any time soon. complete.) He and Acyde are also DJ’d GQ’s every six months. Friday night Parisian party at L’Avenue, a tradition that began in June 2018 with Acyde and Abloh. Tremaine Emory and Supreme Took Over Paris Fashion Week

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