What to eat now: A focaccia bread ice cream ribboned with olive oil and flakes of salt

Focaccia bread ice cream at Antico Nuovo

Near the end of a 2.5-hour dinner at Antico Nuovo in Larchmont, our waiter suggested focaccia ice cream. It was around 9 p.m. Sleepy and full, I was on the fence. I asked if I had heard her correctly. That’s right, she said, focaccia, like in chef Chad Colby’s wonderful bread, with a crispy, salty, fatty crust and a bubbly, chewy middle that’s somehow transformed into cream. Why not? The base for ice cream (and for all the flavors at Antico) is fior di latte, a distinctive milky flavor not unlike vanilla. Stacked throughout the glass, in chunks big enough to make panzanella, are aged squares of focaccia, softened and liquid, that act like sponges for ice cream. Swirling through are strips of pale yellow olive oil studded with salt flakes. It is covered with bread crumbs fried in olive oil. The texture alone is addicting, with soft, cool ice cream, soft bread (think of the cereal that has been softened at the end of the bowl), grains of salt, and a crispy coating. Colby said it was initially offered as a limited flavor shortly before closing in March 2020, but one person regularly “twisted his arm” to bring it back. To anyone who did the twist, I am eternally grateful.

Stir-fried pork belly with green onions.

Braised pork belly of Tin Tin Restaurant.

(Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times)

Braised pork belly with cabbage at Tin Tin Restaurant

My Chinese grandmother often has big, overarching, praise-or-disapproving statements about many of the San Gabriel Valley restaurants. She claims the braised pork belly at Tin Tin Restaurant, located in the back corner of a strip mall in Rosemead, is the best in the city and surrounding areas. In this case (a lot, actually), she’s right. The pork chops are half-fat, half-meat, and they sway as the dish is dropped onto the Lazy Susan glass. The greasy tops are glistening, smothered in a sweet red sauce scented with garlic, star anise and Shaoxing wine. The meat and sauce seemed to melt when mixed with the preserved cabbage underneath. Unlike some of the newer restaurants in the area, Tin Tin still offers a large bucket of free white rice to the table. The remaining sauce and rice make for a great breakfast the next morning.

Bread No. 4 My Tho Bread Shop

A sandwich cut in half.

Grilled pork sausage sandwich number 4 of Banh Mi My Tho in Rosemead.

(Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times)

I’ve been ordering banh mi #8 at My Tho Banh Mi since Bill Addison mentioned it on his list of favorite sandwiches. It’s a great, crowded baguette with thinly sliced ​​grilled pork marinated with garlic and lemongrass. But on a visit to the new location in Rosemead, I was transferred to number 4. In front of the counter, round skewers of meatballs beckoned from a warming box. The spherical balls are hard and rough with coarsely ground pork and fat threads. They have the same sweetness and lemongrass flavor as the roast pork in number 8, but with a more pronounced black pepper. All sandwiches come with the same pickled radish and carrots, fresh sliced ​​peppers and cucumber, cilantro, avocado egg yolk mayonnaise, green onions and peanuts on a fluffy bagel, cool. Number 4 has all the usual condiments, with grilled sausage meatballs being the star. Next time you visit, let those meatballs shine.

Tsukune from Kodo

Tsukune topped with an egg yolk and scallions

Tsukune from Kodo in downtown LA

(Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times)

Not a single bad table at Kodo, the new Arts District restaurant in the Rykn hotel. Out on the porch, pieces of cloth hang, dead with charcoal or fermented persimmon, peacefully swaying and swaying above diners. At the sushi counter and along the back wall of the dining room, there’s a front row of seats to do all the action, and you can hear chef Yoya Takahashi enthusiastically passing orders to his team, greetings and thanks Thank you guest. Recent dinners included an artfully prepared nigiri procession, but the highlight of the evening was a hockey-sized chicken nugget known as a tukune. The minced chicken is loosely wrapped with flavors like ginger and scallions. Beautifully charred, it sits in a puddle of yakitori meat, a salty, sticky sauce often served with yakitori. And just one pickled shishito pepper will adorn the plate. Break the yolks into small pieces and let the yolks spill into the yakitori skin, creating a rich glaze for your meatballs. During this visit, three people shared an order. Next time, tsukune for everyone!

Antico Nuovo, 4653 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 510-3093, Antonuovo-la.com
Tin Tin Restaurant, 7621 Garvey Ave ,. Rosemead, (626) 573-1983
My Tho Bread, 7434 Garvey Ave., Rosemead, (626) 545-2008, banhmimytho.com
Kodo, 710 S. Santa Fe Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 302-8010, kodo.la

https://www.latimes.com/food/story/2022-05-02/jenn-harris-best-dishes-focaccia-ice-cream What to eat now: A focaccia bread ice cream ribboned with olive oil and flakes of salt

Russell Falcon

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