What to eat now: Can a tinned fish board be better than a charcuterie?

As a food columnist, I go out almost every night, trying out new restaurants, stalls, and trucks. So people often want to know: What are you eating? Yes, thanks for asking. Here are some of the best I’ve eaten this week. These are not reviews, but signposts, early cues of something special that might be on the LA dining scene.

“Caviar” in Asterid

Does caviar belong to tamal? After trying something out at Ray Garcia’s new restaurant at Walt Disney Concert Hall, which is simply “caviar” on the menu, I’m convinced it doesn’t belong anywhere else. Tamal is made from sweet and earthy 898 squash, a variety bred by the Row 7 seed company to be a concentrated squash flavor bomb. Garcia, who was a chef at Broken Spanish and the late Dr. Taqueria, adds a box of crema and a spoonful of an impressive selection of schrenckii caviar. Sweet, shiny, perfect.

Tamal with caviar from Asterid.

Tamal with caviar from Asterid.

(Jim Sullivan)

Canned fish board at Bar Moruno LA

I’m about to make the argument that canned fishboard is better than charcoal. Maybe we don’t need to label a person as premium, but it’s fair to say they’re equally enjoyable. What brought me to this conclusion was a recent dinner at the new Bar Moruno in Silver Lake. It was the re-opening of Chris Feldmeier and David Rosoff’s Spanish restaurant, which opened in 2016 at the Original Farmers Market, moved to Grand Central Market later that year, then closed in 2017. I lamented. about its absence since then. To start, we ordered two canned fish boards. One came with a can of sardines greasy in olive oil, the other a box of mackerel pate. Both came with crispy bread, delicious avocado, and a slice of pickle. We crafted the perfect buns, carefully buttering the bread, smearing the pate and balancing the sardines, finally honoring each masterpiece with a slice of pickled carrot or calculated celery. provocative acid. Fish, bread, butter, acid, a few sips of Rossof’s own Vermina vermouth, a gilda or two (white anchovies, guindilla pepper, olives, egg yolks that have been simmered on a skewer) and repeat until when you are really satisfied.

Lobster dumplings, salmon tiradito, grilled octopus and crispy rice at Causita

Lobster dumplings from Causita.

Lobster dumplings from Causita.

(Thao Pham)

On Thursday, the dining room at Causita hit an impressive pace at 6:50 p.m. A suspenseful, excited energy resonates with staff and diners, who eagerly watch the dishes at neighboring tables near. The restaurant, which is Peruvian slang for “best friends,” opened Tuesday, next to Bar Moruno. It’s Rosoff and chef Ricardo Zarate taking on Nikkei’s Peruvian cuisine, a style that combines the flavors and techniques of Peruvian and Japanese cuisine. As soon as I looked at the menu, I knew I was in trouble. I want one of everything. Lobster dumplings are fried and stuffed with sweet chunks of lobster, still soft and just cooked through. Salmon tiradito marinated in ponzu and torch-kissed, served with horseradish mousse and chewy radish noodles. We scrape the plate beneath the grilled octopus, trying to catch every last bite of the cheese-chorizo ​​goat mousse served alongside the fish. The crispy rice brings back memories of dinners at Benihana, prepared on the table over a hot pan. Our waiter mixed raw eggs and soy sauce, then topped the steak tartare and velvety Parmesan sauce. On my next visit, I am determined to make room for dessert.

Anticucho Yaki at Onizuka LA

Anticucho Yaki at Onizuka LA.

Anticucho Yaki at Onizuka LA.


Another restaurant touting Nikkei cuisine is Onizuka, a new restaurant on La Cienega Avenue from chef Alex Carrasco of Bee Taqueria. The plush velvet emerald green booths and hanging plants give the dining room an Anthropologie feel with an overwhelming atmosphere. The best I’ve tried is Carrasco’s, the marinated grilled skewers found on street corners all over Peru. Carrasco’s skewers arrive almost uncooked with a prompt to finish them to your liking on the supplied mini grill. You want to brush some Antucho sauce (a brown sauce flavored with garlic, onion, and vinegar) on the skewers then grill them. One order comes with two skewers each, a rack of steak, and shishito peppers stacked with cherry tomatoes. We whip and grill our skewers, then drag them over the golden huancaina sauce, a peppery cheese paste that tastes like the cheese hummus you’ll be lucky to find at Trader Joe’s.

Places to try this week

Asterid, 141 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 972-3535, asteridla.com
Bar Moruno, 3705 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 546-0505, barmorunola.com
Causita, 3709 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, Causita-la.com
Onizuka, 514 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, (424) 278-1337, onizukala.com

https://www.latimes.com/food/story/2022-04-26/restaurant-recommendations-what-to-eat-this-week-jenn-harris What to eat now: Can a tinned fish board be better than a charcuterie?

Russell Falcon

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