You’ll never guess the magic ingredient in this vegan soft serve

Soft vegan serving at Mother Tongue

Michael Mina’s new restaurant lulls you into its sunken warm cocoon without you even realizing it. Located in the new Heimat social and fitness club complex in Hollywood, Mother Tongue is one floor below co-working spaces and private dining areas and across multiple floors is a fitness club and spa, where beauties run, jump, twist, squat and pull kinesis machines.

Well-dressed restaurant waiters carry cocktail trays in adorable glassware. Their custom golden metallic stealth legs vibrated like shooting stars. By the time dessert hits the table, chances are you’ve consumed more superfoods than you can pronounce or know exists.

The whipped butter spread is seasoned with seaweed salt. Snake River Farms steak tartare is soaked in turmeric and horseradish powder. The shiitake mushroom larvae are served as a lettuce wrap with coconut MCTs. Spirulina is the star of cavatelli. My cocktail had tulsi.

The mouth-watering dish is pastry chef Vivian Chang and Veronica Arroyo’s soft-serve sundae. The base is made of Ripple, a unique product shaped from a golden bean. It is amazingly milky, smooth and creamy. Surrounded by the soft portion are small squares of chia seed cakes soaked in lemon syrup. It’s finished with Maldon salt, a dash of olive oil, and some raw honeycomb. If you’re looking for a completely plant-based dessert, ask to skip the honeycomb. This is possibly the most dessert in Los Angeles at the moment.

Matzo ball ramen at Oy Bar

Next to it is a bowl of ramen noodles with chopsticks

Matzo ball ramen at Oy Bar in Studio City.

(Ricardo DeArathanha / Los Angeles Times)

The matzo ball ramen at this bar in Studio City is what I would make with my grandmother’s matzo ball soup if I had the guts to bring the seasoning to the Passover table (or if I bought Seder ingredients at 99 Ranch). Market). Chef Jeff Strauss makes a stew with boiled chicken wings, ginger, and green onions. It’s clean and delicate and tastes like something that can help relieve a cold. Set in the center is a dense, grainy matzo ball, topped with dill and fattened with schmaltz. This is where the similarities with Grandma’s soup begin to fade.

Large in the bowl are grilled maitake mushrooms; a tangle of curly, elastic noodles; a slice of char siu; an egg with an opaque middle; a mound of thinly sliced ​​green onions; and a spoonful of Strauss’ crispy chile version. It’s a dish in a serious identity crisis, but it works. Twist the noodles around your chopsticks and pluck a bit of pork for a ramen experience. Sip matzo chips with a sip of broth like you’re in a family Seder.

Strauss doesn’t state much because he’s researching a dish he’s been eating since he was a kid. Sentiment is the one I would adopt. Next year, I will bring a jar of Lao Gan Ma to Passover.

Big Ant’s BBQ

A rib, coleslaw, cornbread and baked beans

A plate of grilled meat from Big Ant’s BBQ in Glassell Park.

(Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times)

You don’t need tools, or even teeth, to eat tenderloin at Big Ant’s BBQ in Glassell Park. Pork simply slips off the bone like a fluffy silk dress and fits in your mouth. The phrase “soft AF” seems appropriate. Only your gums and tongue are required.

This is true of most meats at Anthony “Big Ant” Hypolite’s restaurant. The ribs are coated in a sweet barbecue sauce with the sweetness and lightness of spices. The brisket is smoky, well mixed with fat and the crust is dark black. Hot bonds are dense and dense. Chicken bones slide off the bacon without much effort.

If there’s a pork loin when you go, order it. The smoked pork belly has a rich caramel flavor. I skimmed the menu, sifted through everything, and made my own plate of bacon, baked beans, coleslaw, and collard greens.

The best time to come is near 11am, right when the restaurant opens. On the counter are trays of golden tortillas, the aroma of smoked meat wafting in the air. And, most importantly, they won’t come out of anything.

Oy Bar, 12446 Moorpark St., Studio City, (818) 761-8686,
Mother Tongue, 960 N. La Brea Ave., 4th Floor, Los Angeles, (213) 319-7850,
Big Ant’s BBQ, 2207 N. San Fernando Road, Los Angeles, (323) 987-0029, You’ll never guess the magic ingredient in this vegan soft serve

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